In the heart of Darlinghurst in Sydney you will find iconic Italian restaurant Verde. Tucked away in an old Victorian-era building, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re dining at Nonna’s. The Southern Italian-inspired restaurant is warm and inviting, with service to match. Verde translates to ‘green’, a nod to their commitment to using only the best fresh produce, which naturally complements owner and chef Antonio Ruggerino’s passion for creating traditional yet innovative dishes.
Moving to Australia at a young age, Antonio’s mother and father kept the flavours and traditions of Southern Italy alive for Antonio and his two brothers through his mother’s cooking and long lunches with his extended family. The food Antonio was raised on was simple Southern Italian provincial food, but it celebrated fresh produce and the harmonious combination of ingredients on a plate.
Verde is an extension of this ethos and a loving tribute to Antonio’s parents, his Southern Italian roots and the inspiration they provided. This tribute is reflected in Verde’s menu items, many of which are influenced by Antonio’s authentic family recipes.
We caught up with Antonio on a very rare day off, chatting about his deep passion for Italian food, his connection to Calabria and of course, his love of illy coffee!
What is the inspiration behind your current menu?Since opening in 2007 the menu has changed slightly, but the original experience that I wanted to offer clientele has remained the same, to experience my Nonna’s cooking. Remarkably, some of the original dishes that I opened the restaurant with in 2007 are still currently my best-sellers. For example, our five-hour slow-cooked pork shank ragu and crispy-skin snapper with gremolata on pappardelle. I come from a farming family in Calabria and their way of life is a major inspiration behind my menu at Verde. Everything they use in the kitchen is fresh and home-grown, from vegetables and herbs to the meat used to create their salami. The cooking-style is simple, but they really hero the fresh ingredients. It’s something I try to replicate in the Verde kitchen. All the herbs we use in the kitchen come from my mother’s garden, even the eggs are from her chickens. We make everything in house, but we try to keep it simple. And we only cook what we like to eat!
Restaurant recommendation when visiting Italy? Not really a restaurant recommendation, but a must-visit when back in Italy is my grandmother’s pizza oven. They stuff bread with capsicums and herbs from the garden (or whatever is in season), a generous pour of olive oil (that they’ve made themselves) and bake it. All the juices from the capsicums and herbs seep into the bread while it’s baking, and you just can’t beat it!
Earliest memory of illy Coffee? illy to me, is one of the leading brands in the coffee world, they are known for their quality and consistency. My earliest memory however would be visiting an illy caffé as a young kid. Way before I owned restaurants!
Any tips for using illy Coffee in a dessert? Coffee and dessert have always been a married couple. There are so many ways to feature coffee in dessert. One thing I would love to bring back that is occasionally requested at Verde is a nice zabaione. It’s very time consuming, as you must beat the mixture by hand over fire, but that with an illy espresso and some nice biscuits on the side is such a classic. At Verde, the tiramisu has always been a popular choice, so has the affogato. Both delicious ways to feature illy coffee.
What’s your coffee order? illy espresso. I never put milk in a bloody coffee!
Visit Verde Restaurant at 115-117 Riley Street, Darlinghurst. 02 9380 8877, www.verderestaurant.com.au.